Pete set the alarm for 05:00 but got up at 04:30 for a shower and tea making, which meant Alison was in the shower for 5 o'clock.
The remainder of the fruit bowl was consumed for "first breakfast" and the luggage was taken downstyairs at about 5:50. The first shuttle bus to the station was due at 6:20, so we had 30 minutes to spare. Took some photos in reception and went out side to see the New Year's Day crowd returning from the Victoria all-night flower market - we needed fresh air before our 20-hour trip home!
The bus duly arrived on time and did the hotel rounds picking up no-one else en route to the station where we arrived at 6:35.
Bought the train tickets for the airport express, obtained the refund on our Octopus cards and checked in at the station about 10 minutes before the two-hour deadline for our flight.
We then went down to the platform, where there was a waiting train, which whisked us to the airport in 25 minutes. Breezed through security and found ourselves at the immigration desk barely an hour after leaving the hotel - try doing that in London.
Second breakfast was had in the lounge at about 08:00 and we were called to board the plane at 08:45.
It seemed an age before we took off, as we were taxiing for miles along a bumpy road to the runway.
Breakfast number 3 on the plane and then got the bed out for sleep number 2.
Peter managed to watch 2 and a half episodes of the Lord of the Rings and was more interested in identifying which parts of the NZ scenery he could recognise than following the story.
Alison started to watch Lincoln and woke up when it finished.
Night flights seem to pass much quicker than day flights.
We landed on time, but at the furthermost outpost of Terminal one, so walked for 20 minutes before we arrived aty immigration and the luggage belt.
We picked up a trolley, relieved that we did not need a pound coin as we did not have one!
We failed to find the driver for our transfer to Gatwick, rang him up only to find that he had sold his business but had not thought to close down his booking website. Never mind, we found the coach station, Alison had the foresight to buy some drinks (which gave her the pound coin we would need at Gatwick) and we setlled down to watch the sleet as we were driven to Gatwick.
The very kind lady at checkin said we were slightly over the limit for our checked luggage (actually it was 13kg over weight), but did not charge us as we were transferring from an international flight.
Alison fell asleep as soon as she had sat down on the plane, so missed her free coke.
We arrived on time and were pleased to see Simon meeting us in our estate car (big enough for all that luggage). The automatic heating control had duly switched on the heating so we arrived to a warm house and found a newly completed wardrobe enclosing the hot water tank in the dressing room.
Cases left unopened until the morning!
And so to bed.
Sunday, 10 February 2013
Saturday, 9 February 2013
The Big Buddha
After a long sleep, we went down for breakfast at around 08:30 and enjoyed the enormous buffet on offer. Afterwards, we hopped on a tram towards North Point terminus. We wondered why everyone got off at the stop before the end, then, when the tram turned the corner, in front of us was a mass of people shopping at the street market!
The tram driver rang his bell and shouted obscenities, whilst driving at about 1 mph through the crowd. Great fun to watch, better then being outside!
We strolled along the main road, which was, in Hong Kong terms, deserted as we only bumped into people every now and then.
We hopped back on a tram and alighted at Patterson street, finding ourselves at the World Trade Centre building where we had a cup of tea. Pressing a random button on the lift saw us enter a complete floor of gaming machines! We resisted the temptation to try them and rapidly left to make our way to the Excelsior hotel, where we had to rendezvous for our afternoon excursion.
After a tour of Hotels, we eventually headed off on the expressway towards Lantau Island, where we were put on the cable car to Ngong Ping.
The ride took 25 minutes and involved three separate sections of cable, the longest one scarily stretching unsupported right across the bay.
Eventually, after two changes of direction, we arrived at our destination and were able to see the big buddha towering above us. We collected a new tour guide who had arranged a coach ride instead of our having to climb up all the steps! (Alison breathed a sigh of relief after her climb the day before).
Once at the top, we were able to go around the museum, as well as appreciate how big the buddha really was (34 metres tall and 23 tonnes of bronze).
We then made our way to another monastery, where a new temple of ten thousand buddhas is being constructed, on our way to the fishing village of Tai O.
The fisherman's houses are built on stilts and amongst the dried fish in the markets was a whole dried shark!
Then another coach trip to the other side of Lantau to catch the "de luxe" high speed ferry back to Hong Kong Central.
Alighting from the ferry, we made our way towards Lan Kwai Fong, where we found the Hard Rock cafe in its normally seedy surroundings. Not far away was a very attractive Thai restaurant where we enjoyed a tasty meal, before heading off again down the hill and catching the tram back towards the hotel.
The area around the hotel was packed as everyone was heading towards the Victoria Park fair, which was continuing on into the night.
And so to bed for our early start tomorrow.
The tram driver rang his bell and shouted obscenities, whilst driving at about 1 mph through the crowd. Great fun to watch, better then being outside!
We strolled along the main road, which was, in Hong Kong terms, deserted as we only bumped into people every now and then.
We hopped back on a tram and alighted at Patterson street, finding ourselves at the World Trade Centre building where we had a cup of tea. Pressing a random button on the lift saw us enter a complete floor of gaming machines! We resisted the temptation to try them and rapidly left to make our way to the Excelsior hotel, where we had to rendezvous for our afternoon excursion.
After a tour of Hotels, we eventually headed off on the expressway towards Lantau Island, where we were put on the cable car to Ngong Ping.
Eventually, after two changes of direction, we arrived at our destination and were able to see the big buddha towering above us. We collected a new tour guide who had arranged a coach ride instead of our having to climb up all the steps! (Alison breathed a sigh of relief after her climb the day before).
Once at the top, we were able to go around the museum, as well as appreciate how big the buddha really was (34 metres tall and 23 tonnes of bronze).
We then made our way to another monastery, where a new temple of ten thousand buddhas is being constructed, on our way to the fishing village of Tai O.
The fisherman's houses are built on stilts and amongst the dried fish in the markets was a whole dried shark!
Then another coach trip to the other side of Lantau to catch the "de luxe" high speed ferry back to Hong Kong Central.
Alighting from the ferry, we made our way towards Lan Kwai Fong, where we found the Hard Rock cafe in its normally seedy surroundings. Not far away was a very attractive Thai restaurant where we enjoyed a tasty meal, before heading off again down the hill and catching the tram back towards the hotel.
The area around the hotel was packed as everyone was heading towards the Victoria Park fair, which was continuing on into the night.
And so to bed for our early start tomorrow.
Friday, 8 February 2013
Misty views of ten thousand buddhas
Our day started after showers in our room and the usual cuppa.
we left shortly after 9am from Tin Hau MTR station to make the journey to Sha Tin station; this involved changes at Admiralty, Mong Kok and Kowloon Tong, the first two were quick cross-platform changes and the third was a long walk punctuated by escalators.
Our guidebook said that to find the temple, all we had to do was follow the signs from Sha Tin.
We searched the information map and looked around all the station exits to no avail.
Soon we saw two young men who looked like visitors, who told us they had just returned from the temple and pointed out the way to us. "The sign" was at least 400 meters from the station!
The weather was drizzly, but mild, which was not a problem as we had 400+ steps to climb!
On reaching the top the climb had certainly been worthwhile! Some fabulous decorated buildings, including the main temple, which apparently does have more than 12,000 miniature buddhas decorating the (not to be photographed) walls.
Unfortunately, we were unable to fulfil Graham's request for some mist-less views from the top!
We had some tea and vegetarian snacks at the top and then made our way back down via the bus station of course, where there were various buses on display.
.
Back to Central via the same route to do some shopping and once again, all of the connections took less than 5 minutes, but all the trains were very crowded.
We finished off with a visit to the Victoria gardens flower market, which is set up for the lunar new year.
There were hundreds of stalls and thousands of people milling about, with all manner of floral offerings and other goodies to enhance the celebrations.
When we arrived back at our room Peter's wallet was missing, presumably "lost" on one of those very crowded MTR trains. Fortunately there was very little cash inside and only one debit card.
But a 30-minute phone call was needed to navigate the tortuous process required to report this to the bank, which insisted on transferring us three times and putting us on hold despite the fact we were making an international call from a mobile. The call probably cost more than the value of the lost items!
A complimentary bowl of fruit from the Hotel manager was a welcome gesture.
Now a Police report form needs to be completed (on the internet).
Tomorrow we visit the Big Buddha at Lantau and will try to keep all our possessions intact..
we left shortly after 9am from Tin Hau MTR station to make the journey to Sha Tin station; this involved changes at Admiralty, Mong Kok and Kowloon Tong, the first two were quick cross-platform changes and the third was a long walk punctuated by escalators.
Our guidebook said that to find the temple, all we had to do was follow the signs from Sha Tin.
We searched the information map and looked around all the station exits to no avail.
Soon we saw two young men who looked like visitors, who told us they had just returned from the temple and pointed out the way to us. "The sign" was at least 400 meters from the station!
The weather was drizzly, but mild, which was not a problem as we had 400+ steps to climb!
On reaching the top the climb had certainly been worthwhile! Some fabulous decorated buildings, including the main temple, which apparently does have more than 12,000 miniature buddhas decorating the (not to be photographed) walls.
Unfortunately, we were unable to fulfil Graham's request for some mist-less views from the top!
We had some tea and vegetarian snacks at the top and then made our way back down via the bus station of course, where there were various buses on display.
.
Back to Central via the same route to do some shopping and once again, all of the connections took less than 5 minutes, but all the trains were very crowded.
We finished off with a visit to the Victoria gardens flower market, which is set up for the lunar new year.
There were hundreds of stalls and thousands of people milling about, with all manner of floral offerings and other goodies to enhance the celebrations.
When we arrived back at our room Peter's wallet was missing, presumably "lost" on one of those very crowded MTR trains. Fortunately there was very little cash inside and only one debit card.
But a 30-minute phone call was needed to navigate the tortuous process required to report this to the bank, which insisted on transferring us three times and putting us on hold despite the fact we were making an international call from a mobile. The call probably cost more than the value of the lost items!
A complimentary bowl of fruit from the Hotel manager was a welcome gesture.
Now a Police report form needs to be completed (on the internet).
Tomorrow we visit the Big Buddha at Lantau and will try to keep all our possessions intact..
Our last day in New Zealand
Up a little later and some leisurely packing enabled us to leave our room and pack up the car before 10:00. We went for a lakeside walk in beautiful sunshine and returned to pick up the car and go for a short drive to use up the last of our petrol.
We reached Edith Cavell bridge over the shotover creek another wonderful location, where we had coffee and a very hot chocolate and strawberry muffin.
We watched the jetboats skimming up and down the creek.
We reached Queenstown airport with less than 10km of fuel left and then negotiated with hertz over the stone chip which had cracked the windscreen; we will need to claim on our excess insurance policy. The helpful Air New Zealand checkin clerk booked our luggage all the way to hong Kong, so we were able to relax in the lounge (for five hours) when we reached Auckland.
The journey from Queenstown passed over some of the most scenic mountain landscape, showing parts we could never reach!
We had a shower before boarding the plane for Hong Kong. The usual pre flight drinks and perusing yet another menu (so far they have all been different) and we even managed to have some Cloudy Bay with our Snapper!
It was candle-lit breakfast for two on the plane, as Peter sat opposite Alison on her "ottoman", cum leg rest.
We were relieved to see that our luggage had arrived and even though we checked in at our hotel at 7:00 am, they managed to find us a room!
We reached Edith Cavell bridge over the shotover creek another wonderful location, where we had coffee and a very hot chocolate and strawberry muffin.
We watched the jetboats skimming up and down the creek.
The journey from Queenstown passed over some of the most scenic mountain landscape, showing parts we could never reach!
We had a shower before boarding the plane for Hong Kong. The usual pre flight drinks and perusing yet another menu (so far they have all been different) and we even managed to have some Cloudy Bay with our Snapper!
It was candle-lit breakfast for two on the plane, as Peter sat opposite Alison on her "ottoman", cum leg rest.
We were relieved to see that our luggage had arrived and even though we checked in at our hotel at 7:00 am, they managed to find us a room!
Wednesday, 6 February 2013
Darting about
Up at 6 this morning and an early breakfast for our 7.30 pickup on the main road.
for the next 45 minutes we were driven on very scenic route to the tiny village of Glenorchy (pop 200), where we checked in for our Dart River Wilderness safari.
We were given our wet weather gear and boarded a "bus" - Alison commented "thought we were going on a 4x4!" Actually it was a 4x4 bus, as we realised when it drove across the river.
After a very bumpy 30-minute drive we arrived at upper base camp for our forest walk amongst the "false beech" trees.
We were told that the botanists who visited NZ completely "lost the plot" when it came to identifying NZ species. We were shon the three varieties of indigenous tree, some being over 1000 years old. becasue there is no subsoil the roots force up the trunk of the trees above ground, following which they begin to rot from the inside. We climbed inside one such tree, before finding a Hobbit's chair which had been left behind by Warner Bros.
Then followed the 90-minute "white knuckle" ride back on teh jetboat, which can do 60 kph in water 10cm deep and frequently did.
Counting uo our position in the queue, we reckoned we would be in the back seats of the first boat, but were lucky enough to be in the front seats of boat number 2. Although the weather was cool (and the glacial water around 6 degrres) the handrails we grasped were heated, so it was more of a red- than a white- knuckle ride at times.
We were splashed by the abrupt 360degree turns and had to hang on tight and cover the cameras.
We were given a short time to explore the village and have a cup of hot chocolate, after which it was back on teh coach to the hotel and start the repacking for our flight to Hong Kong tomorrow.
.
for the next 45 minutes we were driven on very scenic route to the tiny village of Glenorchy (pop 200), where we checked in for our Dart River Wilderness safari.
We were given our wet weather gear and boarded a "bus" - Alison commented "thought we were going on a 4x4!" Actually it was a 4x4 bus, as we realised when it drove across the river.
After a very bumpy 30-minute drive we arrived at upper base camp for our forest walk amongst the "false beech" trees.
We were told that the botanists who visited NZ completely "lost the plot" when it came to identifying NZ species. We were shon the three varieties of indigenous tree, some being over 1000 years old. becasue there is no subsoil the roots force up the trunk of the trees above ground, following which they begin to rot from the inside. We climbed inside one such tree, before finding a Hobbit's chair which had been left behind by Warner Bros.
Then followed the 90-minute "white knuckle" ride back on teh jetboat, which can do 60 kph in water 10cm deep and frequently did.
Counting uo our position in the queue, we reckoned we would be in the back seats of the first boat, but were lucky enough to be in the front seats of boat number 2. Although the weather was cool (and the glacial water around 6 degrres) the handrails we grasped were heated, so it was more of a red- than a white- knuckle ride at times.
We were splashed by the abrupt 360degree turns and had to hang on tight and cover the cameras.
We were given a short time to explore the village and have a cup of hot chocolate, after which it was back on teh coach to the hotel and start the repacking for our flight to Hong Kong tomorrow.
.
Tuesday, 5 February 2013
A Funny French Afternoon
There was snow on the hills this morning after a cool and wet night. We needed to switch on the heater as the temperature here was around 11 degrees.
After a very full continental breakfast, we set off on the shuttle into Queenstown and took a ride on the gondola to take in the view of the city and lake.
The weather was improving all the time.
When we returned to the hotel we had a quick sandwich and then we met by Julie from funny french wine tours, for a chauffeured tour of the mid Otago wineries.
We started with a small cheese maker and tasted some delicious cheeses, one of which we bought to sample later in our room. Then it was on to four other boutique vineyards with a running scenic commentary as we went along. Julie clearly knew all of the producers personally and had chosen some fine wines for us to taste, We also took in Roaring Meg hydroelectric power station and a cafe on Lake Dunston, an artificial lake constructed for the power station at Cromwell. Heads turned when whenever we arrived in our 2CV!
Back to the hotel for a quick break and then out again for a gourmet meal at "Rata", a superb restaurant which had been recommended to us by the vintners; it certainly was a memorable meal.
Early to bed for our 7.25 pickup tomorrow.
After a very full continental breakfast, we set off on the shuttle into Queenstown and took a ride on the gondola to take in the view of the city and lake.
The weather was improving all the time.
When we returned to the hotel we had a quick sandwich and then we met by Julie from funny french wine tours, for a chauffeured tour of the mid Otago wineries.
We started with a small cheese maker and tasted some delicious cheeses, one of which we bought to sample later in our room. Then it was on to four other boutique vineyards with a running scenic commentary as we went along. Julie clearly knew all of the producers personally and had chosen some fine wines for us to taste, We also took in Roaring Meg hydroelectric power station and a cafe on Lake Dunston, an artificial lake constructed for the power station at Cromwell. Heads turned when whenever we arrived in our 2CV!
Early to bed for our 7.25 pickup tomorrow.
Monday, 4 February 2013
A Doubtful Sound
We had an early breakfast, packed an overnight bag plus swimwear and thanked Roger and Wendy for their hospitality. We drove back through Te Anau and made our way to Lake Manapouri, stopping on the way to take a photo of the lake. We drove through the town and followed Wendy's instructions to drive to "Pearl Harbour", where we checked in, having parked in the long stay car park. We collected our packed lunch and boarded the Titiroa for the 45-minute journey across the lake (at 23 knots) to the hydro-eloectric power station jetty at the far end of the lake.
The weather was cloudy, misty and much cooler, but this was to prove an advantage.
Having viewed the exhibition which described the seven turbines, each producing over 100 MW of electricity, which are driven by the water flowing from the lake, we were collected by a coach which took us the 22Km over the scenic Wilmot pass (1:5 in places on an unsealed road) to the Jetty at Doubtful Sound, where the three masted Fiordland Navigator was waiting for us.
The enthusiastic crew greeted us with tea/coffee and hot muffins (why had we needed a packed lunch?) and briefed us on what would be happening over the next 24 hours.
We set off down the sound, which was swathed in misty clouds and after a short trip, paused in "crooked arm" for our activities.
The energetic ones took to the kayaks (it was necessary to be fit enough to paddle for 2km), whilst those of us with a more leisurely bent chose to take a nature appreciation trip on the tenders.
We saw albatross and dolphins, whilst our guide explained the way in which trees were able to grow on an impermeable rock face.
First comes the moss, which traps moisture, then the ferns, which grow amongst the moss, and this structure is then able to support the root system of small shrubs, which can then allow the larger trees to adhere to the substructure.
Our guide had worked as a botanist in this region for 10 years and only recently had he witnessed two "tree avalanches" which occur when the trees become too heavy and the whole structure collapses, leaving a smooth rocky vertical face, which can take many years to regenerate.
This Rimu is strong enough to grow out almost horizontally from the rockface.
After the kayaks and boats were back in the "Navigator" we were able to have a swim in the lake.
Peter did a belly flop and Alison descended the ladder! The water temperature was around 16 degrees - cold for some, but warmer than Guernsey seas. We were rewarded by soup and a roll, then the ship sailed out towards the Tasman sea, where we saw "fur seals", which are actually sea lions, basking on the rocks.
The mist was descending and the atmosphere was eerie.
It was a perfect evening for Doubtful Sound - the moisture from the mist swelled the rainwaterfalls which spouted out all around us. We anchored in "First Arm" for the night and had an excellent hot buffet dinner, followed by a fascinating geology lesson with slides, which explained how New Zealand had been formed and then how Fiordland had been sculpted by the ice-age glaciers.
We woke to the sound of the engines being started and the anchor being weighed at 6:15 on another misty morning and took a trip down the Hall arm, noticing how all the springs had swollen as a result of the overnight rain. We spotted a crested penguin fishing in the sound; when we reached the end of the arm all the engines and genrators were switched off and we listened to the "sounds of silence in the sound" - all of a sudden we could hear birdsong amidst the rushing of the waterfalls.
All too soon it was time to return to the jetty and board our bus for the return journey. The clouds lifted just in time for us to catch a final glimpse of Doubtful Sound at the top of the Wilmot Pass.
We concluded that this trip is a "must do" on any visit to South Island. Then off to Queenstown for the next stage of our adventures!
The weather was cloudy, misty and much cooler, but this was to prove an advantage.
Having viewed the exhibition which described the seven turbines, each producing over 100 MW of electricity, which are driven by the water flowing from the lake, we were collected by a coach which took us the 22Km over the scenic Wilmot pass (1:5 in places on an unsealed road) to the Jetty at Doubtful Sound, where the three masted Fiordland Navigator was waiting for us.
The enthusiastic crew greeted us with tea/coffee and hot muffins (why had we needed a packed lunch?) and briefed us on what would be happening over the next 24 hours.
We set off down the sound, which was swathed in misty clouds and after a short trip, paused in "crooked arm" for our activities.
The energetic ones took to the kayaks (it was necessary to be fit enough to paddle for 2km), whilst those of us with a more leisurely bent chose to take a nature appreciation trip on the tenders.
We saw albatross and dolphins, whilst our guide explained the way in which trees were able to grow on an impermeable rock face.
First comes the moss, which traps moisture, then the ferns, which grow amongst the moss, and this structure is then able to support the root system of small shrubs, which can then allow the larger trees to adhere to the substructure.
Our guide had worked as a botanist in this region for 10 years and only recently had he witnessed two "tree avalanches" which occur when the trees become too heavy and the whole structure collapses, leaving a smooth rocky vertical face, which can take many years to regenerate.
This Rimu is strong enough to grow out almost horizontally from the rockface.
After the kayaks and boats were back in the "Navigator" we were able to have a swim in the lake.
Peter did a belly flop and Alison descended the ladder! The water temperature was around 16 degrees - cold for some, but warmer than Guernsey seas. We were rewarded by soup and a roll, then the ship sailed out towards the Tasman sea, where we saw "fur seals", which are actually sea lions, basking on the rocks.
The mist was descending and the atmosphere was eerie.
It was a perfect evening for Doubtful Sound - the moisture from the mist swelled the rainwaterfalls which spouted out all around us. We anchored in "First Arm" for the night and had an excellent hot buffet dinner, followed by a fascinating geology lesson with slides, which explained how New Zealand had been formed and then how Fiordland had been sculpted by the ice-age glaciers.
We woke to the sound of the engines being started and the anchor being weighed at 6:15 on another misty morning and took a trip down the Hall arm, noticing how all the springs had swollen as a result of the overnight rain. We spotted a crested penguin fishing in the sound; when we reached the end of the arm all the engines and genrators were switched off and we listened to the "sounds of silence in the sound" - all of a sudden we could hear birdsong amidst the rushing of the waterfalls.
All too soon it was time to return to the jetty and board our bus for the return journey. The clouds lifted just in time for us to catch a final glimpse of Doubtful Sound at the top of the Wilmot Pass.
We concluded that this trip is a "must do" on any visit to South Island. Then off to Queenstown for the next stage of our adventures!
Saturday, 2 February 2013
The Kepler Track
All the guests were together for breakfast this morning, which was again of the high standard we have come to expect from everywhere we stay. Our hosts had suggested that we explore Milford Sound, but as that involved a 240km round trip, we decided to do something nearer to home.
The Kepler Track was suggested as involving some easy short sections which are accessible by car.
We made the short trip to the DOC (Department of Conservation) information site in Te Anau and picked up some free brochures.
We then drove about 2km to the start (and end) of the Kepler Track. The full walk is about 60km and rises to 1000m above the lake, taking four days and involving stays at mountain huts on the way.
However, we were able do a short 1.5 hour walk to Brod Bay, along a shaded forest track, with ferns , moss and magic mushrooms for company.
The walk back took us just over an hour, as there was less photography involved.
We then drove about 15km to Rainbow Reach, where we had to negotiate a rough unsealed road (don't tell Hertz) to reach the car park. We then crossed over a pedestrian suspension bridge over the river Waiau. Underneath, jetboats roared past giving us a flavour of what we will be doing in Queenstown.
After a short walk up to a viewpoint on the track, we returned to Te Anau where we saw the 30-minute Fjordland film, which included some amazing shots of inaccessible parts of new Zeland as seen from a helicopter. It was derived from the promotional video made to persuade Hollywood to choose this area for the filming of Lord of the Rings.
Back to the guest house to chill out and try the "spa bath" in our room - a wonderful, if rather hot, experience to soothe the aching muscles.
We watched the gathering clouds indicating rain perhaps tomorrow for our Doubtful Sound cruise. The locals say that a bit of rain will swell the waterfalls and improve the experience, even if we get wet in the process!
The Kepler Track was suggested as involving some easy short sections which are accessible by car.
We made the short trip to the DOC (Department of Conservation) information site in Te Anau and picked up some free brochures.
We then drove about 2km to the start (and end) of the Kepler Track. The full walk is about 60km and rises to 1000m above the lake, taking four days and involving stays at mountain huts on the way.
However, we were able do a short 1.5 hour walk to Brod Bay, along a shaded forest track, with ferns , moss and magic mushrooms for company.
The walk back took us just over an hour, as there was less photography involved.
We then drove about 15km to Rainbow Reach, where we had to negotiate a rough unsealed road (don't tell Hertz) to reach the car park. We then crossed over a pedestrian suspension bridge over the river Waiau. Underneath, jetboats roared past giving us a flavour of what we will be doing in Queenstown.
After a short walk up to a viewpoint on the track, we returned to Te Anau where we saw the 30-minute Fjordland film, which included some amazing shots of inaccessible parts of new Zeland as seen from a helicopter. It was derived from the promotional video made to persuade Hollywood to choose this area for the filming of Lord of the Rings.
Back to the guest house to chill out and try the "spa bath" in our room - a wonderful, if rather hot, experience to soothe the aching muscles.
We watched the gathering clouds indicating rain perhaps tomorrow for our Doubtful Sound cruise. The locals say that a bit of rain will swell the waterfalls and improve the experience, even if we get wet in the process!
Friday, 1 February 2013
Wanaka to Te Anau via Bungy Bridge
Once again we had morning tea in the garden and then went upstairs for a community breakfast at 8.00. Blair was cooking and substantial meals were consumed!
We then bade farewell to Rosie, who was off to her work a a district nurse. Pete found a barber's shop and Alison atrolled around town trying to find a shop that was open, but ended up at the I-site
Haircut duly completed, we set off along the Cadrona valley towards Queenstown. Ther were many more spectacular views en route.
We drove a short way back along the main road to visit the first bungy bridge in the world over the Kawarau river. There was a queue of brave mad fools waiting to jump!
We then diverted to Arrowtown, an old gold mining village, dating back to 1886, with all of the traditional buildings beautifully restored. On to Queenstown, where we drove straight past what might have been the last petrol station for 180 km, with about 170km of fuel left.
So a quick turn around and $30 of fuel added before we made our way to Te Anau.
Of course, there were one or two petrol stations, but we could not have been sure.
We arrived at Te Anau at about 5pm and called into the town to confirm our Doubtful Sound cruise. Then on to Deunluce, where we were greeeted with a cup of tea and cake.
Back into town for an italian meal served outside in the warm evening, accompanied by strains of Pavarotti and Bocelli. The best sunset we could have seen was hidden behind the mountains!
We then bade farewell to Rosie, who was off to her work a a district nurse. Pete found a barber's shop and Alison atrolled around town trying to find a shop that was open, but ended up at the I-site
Haircut duly completed, we set off along the Cadrona valley towards Queenstown. Ther were many more spectacular views en route.
We drove a short way back along the main road to visit the first bungy bridge in the world over the Kawarau river. There was a queue of brave mad fools waiting to jump!
We then diverted to Arrowtown, an old gold mining village, dating back to 1886, with all of the traditional buildings beautifully restored. On to Queenstown, where we drove straight past what might have been the last petrol station for 180 km, with about 170km of fuel left.
So a quick turn around and $30 of fuel added before we made our way to Te Anau.
Of course, there were one or two petrol stations, but we could not have been sure.
We arrived at Te Anau at about 5pm and called into the town to confirm our Doubtful Sound cruise. Then on to Deunluce, where we were greeeted with a cup of tea and cake.
Back into town for an italian meal served outside in the warm evening, accompanied by strains of Pavarotti and Bocelli. The best sunset we could have seen was hidden behind the mountains!
Thursday, 31 January 2013
Looking for Wally
We had slept all night with an open window, as it was so warm; this meant that we were "lulled" all night by the sound of the creek flowing through the garden outside our window.
We rose early and had our morning tea outside by the stream.
Breakfast was at eight and was a substantial meal and we were joined by Rosie our hostess at the breakfast table; we talkked so much that we had to rush out for the excursion which she had booked for us.
We went down to the jetty and boarded the Ecotours boat for a trip across lake Wanaka to a small uninhabited Island on which a breeding colony of Buff Wekas had been established to save them from extinction. The trip was quite bumpy with some fairly rough conditions owing to the 60 knot head wind blowing through the narrow part of the channel.
We reached Mou Waho after about 30 minutes and saw a woodpigeon in flight and a bell bird in a tree. Mou Waho is unusual being an island within a glacial lake, itself containing a lake 30m deep 150 m above Lake Wanaka.
Seeing this view, it is difficult to imagine that this is a lake on a rock in a lake!
We climbed a little higher and then met Wally, the first Buff Weka to be introduced to the Island in 1994. Buff Wekas, like Kiwi, are flightless birds and so very susceptible to predators, none of which are allowed to exist on the island, where there are extensive traps laid just in case a stoat or rat manages to swim across the lake.
Wally was very inquisitive and even tried to steal the biscuits which Chris our guide had brought for our morning refreshments!
On our way down we offset our carbon footprint by planting a lance tree; Chris does this on every visit.
We went back to the B&B for lunch and spent the afternoon sorting our photos and meeting some new guests who had arrived from Te Anau, where will be staying tomorow.
In the evening we visited Paradiso, the local cinema, with a diffence. Inside there are two moris minors and numerous settes and armchairs. We pre-ordered our interval snack, which we ate outside, but equally, some people took their food and drink into the audiorium!
We cried through Les Miserables, which was a great experience, especially in that location!
Wanaka has again been entirely different and enjoyable. Not even time to visit the shops, apart from the supermarket to buy our food!
We rose early and had our morning tea outside by the stream.
Breakfast was at eight and was a substantial meal and we were joined by Rosie our hostess at the breakfast table; we talkked so much that we had to rush out for the excursion which she had booked for us.
We went down to the jetty and boarded the Ecotours boat for a trip across lake Wanaka to a small uninhabited Island on which a breeding colony of Buff Wekas had been established to save them from extinction. The trip was quite bumpy with some fairly rough conditions owing to the 60 knot head wind blowing through the narrow part of the channel.
We reached Mou Waho after about 30 minutes and saw a woodpigeon in flight and a bell bird in a tree. Mou Waho is unusual being an island within a glacial lake, itself containing a lake 30m deep 150 m above Lake Wanaka.
Seeing this view, it is difficult to imagine that this is a lake on a rock in a lake!
We climbed a little higher and then met Wally, the first Buff Weka to be introduced to the Island in 1994. Buff Wekas, like Kiwi, are flightless birds and so very susceptible to predators, none of which are allowed to exist on the island, where there are extensive traps laid just in case a stoat or rat manages to swim across the lake.
Wally was very inquisitive and even tried to steal the biscuits which Chris our guide had brought for our morning refreshments!
On our way down we offset our carbon footprint by planting a lance tree; Chris does this on every visit.
We went back to the B&B for lunch and spent the afternoon sorting our photos and meeting some new guests who had arrived from Te Anau, where will be staying tomorow.
In the evening we visited Paradiso, the local cinema, with a diffence. Inside there are two moris minors and numerous settes and armchairs. We pre-ordered our interval snack, which we ate outside, but equally, some people took their food and drink into the audiorium!
We cried through Les Miserables, which was a great experience, especially in that location!
Wanaka has again been entirely different and enjoyable. Not even time to visit the shops, apart from the supermarket to buy our food!
Wednesday, 30 January 2013
Fox Glacier to Lake Wanaka
Laundry went in before breakfast (only $4 here). Another continental breakfast seved by matthew, Kelsey's boyfriend. After the clothes had dried (following a brief power cut), we paid our bill and set off to the village, where we had a coffee/tea and posted the parcel for baby Michael to Jonathan and Philomena.
Our first stop was at Bruce Bay, where the breakers were coming in from the Tasman sea and the beach was littered with driftwood. We spoke to some locals who were collecting the wood for use in their gardens.
We drove on to the salmon fishery, where we had a smoked salmon sandwich, and then onm to Knights point a lookout high above the rocks, where fur seals could be seen.
We crossed the very long, single lane Haast bridge and stopped at the roaring billy waterfall, which involved a short bush walk.
The wind was whilstling up the river valled disturbing clouds of stone dust from the pebbles, in temperatures of 28+ in the shade.
We moved on to the gates of Haast, just below the summit of the Haast pass and stopped at |Makarora filling station for a much needed ice cream (boysen berry with choc ripple or hokey pokey).
Our last stop en route was the spectacular view point at Lake Hawea
We were greetd at our Wanaka accommodation by Rosie, who offered us tea and cakes whilst we discussed what were going to do tomorrow.
The evening concluded with a barbecue in the garden, (joined by Sophie the cat) at the garden table by the side of the flowing creek.
Once again, superb accommodation in a stunning location with unbelievable weather!
Our first stop was at Bruce Bay, where the breakers were coming in from the Tasman sea and the beach was littered with driftwood. We spoke to some locals who were collecting the wood for use in their gardens.
We drove on to the salmon fishery, where we had a smoked salmon sandwich, and then onm to Knights point a lookout high above the rocks, where fur seals could be seen.
We crossed the very long, single lane Haast bridge and stopped at the roaring billy waterfall, which involved a short bush walk.
The wind was whilstling up the river valled disturbing clouds of stone dust from the pebbles, in temperatures of 28+ in the shade.
We moved on to the gates of Haast, just below the summit of the Haast pass and stopped at |Makarora filling station for a much needed ice cream (boysen berry with choc ripple or hokey pokey).
Our last stop en route was the spectacular view point at Lake Hawea
The evening concluded with a barbecue in the garden, (joined by Sophie the cat) at the garden table by the side of the flowing creek.
Once again, superb accommodation in a stunning location with unbelievable weather!
Tuesday, 29 January 2013
Lake Matheson and Fox Glacier
For the first time we have had continental breakfast (no eggs or bacon or even croissants!).
We are sure that it is good for our health.
We also received the welcome message from Chris and Ruth that they were grandparents again!
Congratulations to Jonathan and Philomena!
After breakfast, we went into the township to check out the local shops and confirm our afternoon booking for the Glacier walk, one of the highlights of this trip.
Afterwards we drove the short distance to lake matheson for a limber-upo walk in prepration for the afternoon and to see the famous reflections of the mountains in the lake.
Alison made the first viewpoint, but Peter persevered for another 15 minutes and two floghts of steep steps to the View of Views, and obtained this picture for his efforts.
Unfortunately, the waters were not calm enough for any reflections today.
after a snack at the lake cafe, we headed back into town and checked in for our walk. This started at 1.35, with a briefing in the boot room, where we received our boots and crampons.
gthe bus took us the ten minute drive to the start point and then we had a 45-minute climb on shale paths to get the the start of the ice. There picked up alpenstocks and negotiated an even more treacherous path to get onto the glacier, where we stopped to fit our instep crampons.
progress was slow as the guide had to re-cut the steps in the ice, which had melted away since the morning walkers. The glacier is melting at about 10-25 cm per day in this hot weather. It was anything but a starightforward walk, as we had to climb up narrow crevasses and cross small ravines. After about an hour we reached oine of the highlights, which was the "moulin" where a hole in the ice has collapsed away to reveal a large ice-bowl with waterfalls down its sides and water flowing out of its base into the inside of the glacier.
Then we walked further up to see a new feature which had appearwde that day - a complete archway in the ice, formed by a moulin collapsing into a crevasse.
Then the long trek back over the ice , down the crevasse and then bacl along the shale tracks - we had the benefit of two hours on the glacier, rather than the advertised one hour, meaning that we did not get back to the base until half past six - a total of five hours.
We received individual certificates to mark our achievment.
Needless to say we were exhausted - a quick shower and into the restaurant for another excellent meal.
Washing day tomorrow before we head off south to Wanaka.
We are sure that it is good for our health.
We also received the welcome message from Chris and Ruth that they were grandparents again!
Congratulations to Jonathan and Philomena!
After breakfast, we went into the township to check out the local shops and confirm our afternoon booking for the Glacier walk, one of the highlights of this trip.
Afterwards we drove the short distance to lake matheson for a limber-upo walk in prepration for the afternoon and to see the famous reflections of the mountains in the lake.
Alison made the first viewpoint, but Peter persevered for another 15 minutes and two floghts of steep steps to the View of Views, and obtained this picture for his efforts.
Unfortunately, the waters were not calm enough for any reflections today.
after a snack at the lake cafe, we headed back into town and checked in for our walk. This started at 1.35, with a briefing in the boot room, where we received our boots and crampons.
gthe bus took us the ten minute drive to the start point and then we had a 45-minute climb on shale paths to get the the start of the ice. There picked up alpenstocks and negotiated an even more treacherous path to get onto the glacier, where we stopped to fit our instep crampons.
progress was slow as the guide had to re-cut the steps in the ice, which had melted away since the morning walkers. The glacier is melting at about 10-25 cm per day in this hot weather. It was anything but a starightforward walk, as we had to climb up narrow crevasses and cross small ravines. After about an hour we reached oine of the highlights, which was the "moulin" where a hole in the ice has collapsed away to reveal a large ice-bowl with waterfalls down its sides and water flowing out of its base into the inside of the glacier.
Then we walked further up to see a new feature which had appearwde that day - a complete archway in the ice, formed by a moulin collapsing into a crevasse.
Then the long trek back over the ice , down the crevasse and then bacl along the shale tracks - we had the benefit of two hours on the glacier, rather than the advertised one hour, meaning that we did not get back to the base until half past six - a total of five hours.
We received individual certificates to mark our achievment.
Needless to say we were exhausted - a quick shower and into the restaurant for another excellent meal.
Washing day tomorrow before we head off south to Wanaka.
Monday, 28 January 2013
The Trans-alpine experience
Up at six for what had been promised as help yourself buffet and bring your own coffee early breakfast, only to discover that as there were five of us on an earlt departure, the staff were in and we had our normal full service, including eggs and bacon!
We were collected by the shuttle at 07:30 and taken to the station to check-in for the train. We had managed to squeeze everything into our 4 suitcases, with just a few bits and pieces in our backpacks.
Our suitcases were loaded into the guards van and we went to our allocated seats on the train, which departed on time at 08:15.
The staff came around with headsets, which were complimentary, to enable us to listen to the GPS-intiated commentary slots throughout the journey. We passed through some stunning scenery ove impressive viaducts and through countless tunnels. until we reached the summit of Artur's Pass.
By this time, the observation car was four deep each side! We were allowed off for five New Zealand minutes to take photographs.
We then passed through the 15-minute tunnel linking Arthur's Pass to Otari, which, when built was the third longest rail tunnel in the world (it now ranks 45th).
After Otari there were fewer people in the observation car and we were able to get some better photographs.
We were half an hour late getting into Greymout becasu we had to wait in passing loops for a coal train, a works train and because of speed restrictions due to maintenance following the recent storms.
We collected another car at Greymouth and made our way along the winding and very scenic road towards Fiox Glacier. We stopped en route to try our hands at some gold panning, but were too late!
Alison chose to do the driving in teh most challenging parts, which included a very narrow bridge which was shared with the railway line, much to her surprise! Fortunately not many trains use that route!
We arrived at our hotel, again with faultless navigation, and were given a spacious room which is very comfortable, except for the lack of air-conditioning.
After a very pleasant dinner at the hotel, the clouds cleared just in time to be able tro take a picture of the snow-covered peaks of Mount Tasman and Mount Cook in the gathering gloom.
No sunset tints tonight!
We were collected by the shuttle at 07:30 and taken to the station to check-in for the train. We had managed to squeeze everything into our 4 suitcases, with just a few bits and pieces in our backpacks.
Our suitcases were loaded into the guards van and we went to our allocated seats on the train, which departed on time at 08:15.
The staff came around with headsets, which were complimentary, to enable us to listen to the GPS-intiated commentary slots throughout the journey. We passed through some stunning scenery ove impressive viaducts and through countless tunnels. until we reached the summit of Artur's Pass.
By this time, the observation car was four deep each side! We were allowed off for five New Zealand minutes to take photographs.
We then passed through the 15-minute tunnel linking Arthur's Pass to Otari, which, when built was the third longest rail tunnel in the world (it now ranks 45th).
After Otari there were fewer people in the observation car and we were able to get some better photographs.
We collected another car at Greymouth and made our way along the winding and very scenic road towards Fiox Glacier. We stopped en route to try our hands at some gold panning, but were too late!
Alison chose to do the driving in teh most challenging parts, which included a very narrow bridge which was shared with the railway line, much to her surprise! Fortunately not many trains use that route!
We arrived at our hotel, again with faultless navigation, and were given a spacious room which is very comfortable, except for the lack of air-conditioning.
After a very pleasant dinner at the hotel, the clouds cleared just in time to be able tro take a picture of the snow-covered peaks of Mount Tasman and Mount Cook in the gathering gloom.
Sunday, 27 January 2013
The Grand Tour
After our "continental" breakfast, which included scrambled egg and bacon, we reorganised our suitcases so that we could board the train tomorrow.
We were then picked up at the guest house by a 45-seater coach for "the grand tour"; there was another guest from our accommodation and ... no-one else!
First stop was the boatyard for our punting on the Avon.
This was a 30-minute trip on a wodden punt steered by a well-dressed man in a boater (Cambridge-style"!
We the re-joined our coach for a mini-tour of Christchurch and then headed for Tarkaha reserve, a high look-out point over the Canterbury plains. As you can see, the weather was glorious and reached 26 degrees in the afternoon. Our driver then took us to the coast at Sumner, which had been badly affected by the eathquakes, as its subsoil was much sandier and the cliffs were more fragile. Many of the very expensive cliff-top residences have been condemned and the insurance has yet to pay out.
Containers had been placed at the roadsides to protect the road from rockfalls in subsequent aftershocks.
Many had been decorated with artworks or graffitti.
We were then taken back to the botanical gardens for a tour on the "caterpillar"
We returned to the guest house, picked up our car and took a trip out to New Brighton, which was the most commercialised seaside town we had seen in New Zealand. There were crowds there enjoying the warm sunshine and the conclusion of the busking festival.
It had a very strong pier, which had survived the earthquakes and was vibrant and very different from its namesake inthe Wirral!
We drove back to the airport and left the car in the designated place, walked through to international arrivals and were just in time to catch a shuttle which took us all the way back to our accommodation.
We got bakc just in time for our free glass of wine and then we sat outsaide in the picnic area and drank our Georges Michel bottle of Syrah and ate the snack we had bought in the supermarket at new Brighton. Iona, who had been with us on the Grand Tour, joined us and shared our picnic. Other guests passed by for a friendly chat!
We were then picked up at the guest house by a 45-seater coach for "the grand tour"; there was another guest from our accommodation and ... no-one else!
First stop was the boatyard for our punting on the Avon.
This was a 30-minute trip on a wodden punt steered by a well-dressed man in a boater (Cambridge-style"!
Containers had been placed at the roadsides to protect the road from rockfalls in subsequent aftershocks.
We were then taken back to the botanical gardens for a tour on the "caterpillar"
We returned to the guest house, picked up our car and took a trip out to New Brighton, which was the most commercialised seaside town we had seen in New Zealand. There were crowds there enjoying the warm sunshine and the conclusion of the busking festival.
It had a very strong pier, which had survived the earthquakes and was vibrant and very different from its namesake inthe Wirral!
We drove back to the airport and left the car in the designated place, walked through to international arrivals and were just in time to catch a shuttle which took us all the way back to our accommodation.
We got bakc just in time for our free glass of wine and then we sat outsaide in the picnic area and drank our Georges Michel bottle of Syrah and ate the snack we had bought in the supermarket at new Brighton. Iona, who had been with us on the Grand Tour, joined us and shared our picnic. Other guests passed by for a friendly chat!
Saturday, 26 January 2013
Kaikoura to Christchurch
After another excellent breakfast, we packed up the car and made our farewells to Oli and Rosmarie. we set off at the eartly hour of 09:30 for our 180km trip to christchurch, with enough fuel for 170km, so thought we should add a little just in case. The coastal route really did hug the shoreline most of the way, with the railway line mostly on our lanward side, passing in and out of tunnels and sometimes under the road zappearing on the other side of us.
At Oaro, the road went inland, climing high up over the mountain whereupon the temperature rose from about 16 to 24 degrees as we entered the lee of the strong onshore winds. We found our filling station at a tiny hamlet before Cheviot (Hawkswood perhaps). Then, fully fuelled, we immediately decided to divery down a coastal drive to Gore Bay and cathdral cliffs, where a junior surfing championship was in progress.
It was necessary to hold onto your hat!
We went onto Grea valley for milkshakes and a snack for lunch, then continued on admiring the great scenery all the way to Christchurch, when once again, we found our B&B without any hitch.
the afternoon was spent walking around the city and in particular the RE:Start, where the shops which were devastated by teh earthquake have re-opened in shipping containers.
It is a very lively place .
back for our complimentary glass of wine at this superb colonial style house, where we were able to socialise with the other guests. We booked a table by phone at a nearby bar/restaurant Fiddlesticks, which was magnificent and reasonably priced, considering we are in a major city.
came back and emptied the car as we need to be fully suitcased up for our trip on the train to Greymouth on Monday.
At Oaro, the road went inland, climing high up over the mountain whereupon the temperature rose from about 16 to 24 degrees as we entered the lee of the strong onshore winds. We found our filling station at a tiny hamlet before Cheviot (Hawkswood perhaps). Then, fully fuelled, we immediately decided to divery down a coastal drive to Gore Bay and cathdral cliffs, where a junior surfing championship was in progress.
We went onto Grea valley for milkshakes and a snack for lunch, then continued on admiring the great scenery all the way to Christchurch, when once again, we found our B&B without any hitch.
the afternoon was spent walking around the city and in particular the RE:Start, where the shops which were devastated by teh earthquake have re-opened in shipping containers.
back for our complimentary glass of wine at this superb colonial style house, where we were able to socialise with the other guests. We booked a table by phone at a nearby bar/restaurant Fiddlesticks, which was magnificent and reasonably priced, considering we are in a major city.
came back and emptied the car as we need to be fully suitcased up for our trip on the train to Greymouth on Monday.
Friday, 25 January 2013
Whale-watching in Kaikoura
Breakfast arrived in our room at 08:00, unfortunately it was not warm enough to eat outside on the decking. After breakfast we went out side and a voice from the balcony above us yelled "I've just seen a whale in the bay". It was Marilyn from Vancouver, who claimed to be an expert in such things. Ivo, our host, took pains to tel that it was a "Whale rock" that appears as the tide goes down and disappears when the tide rises!That didnt do her street cred much food!
As she was going on the same trip as us, we gave her a lift to the "Whaleway station" where we were relieved to discover that the weather forecast was calm and the excursion was on. We wathced the 30-minute promotional video followed by the inevitable safety briefing. A bus took us the shor trip to the jetty, where we boarded the catamaran.
Once onboard, we were told to stay seated, since the craft could do up to 40 knots, which it did, giving us an exhilataring ride out into the bay. We headed out to where a whale had been spotted, only to see its fluke disappearing just as we drew near. No worries we were told, the whales spend 10 minutes on the surface oxygenating and then dive for 45 minutes, so with luck we shoudlo see "Tutu" when he3 resurfaced.
We went in search of "Tiaki" their other regular inhabitant, the captain turned off the engines and placed a hydrophone into the water to listen for the sonar click that whales emit when diving. When they are about to surface, the click disappear anad the whales emit higher frequency pulses, which cannot be detected, so silence means one of two things - lost the whale or its coming up"!
Our search was successful and we found a whale on the surface, blowing away.
A few minutes later our guide, who understood whale body-language, said "watch out, he is about to dive". True enough in a few moments the tail fluke appeared and then slowly sank into the sea.
A very successful trip was concluded with a visit to a fur seal colony.
After that, we returned to the car and drove to seal point in Kaikoura for a "coastal promenade" which commenced with a climb of about 100 metres, but did give some great views of the surroundings!
In the evening we had the mandatory crayfish meal at the green dolphin restaurant, before returning to our accommodation. we calculated that we would need to get a few extra litres of petrol to get us all the way to Christchurch.
As she was going on the same trip as us, we gave her a lift to the "Whaleway station" where we were relieved to discover that the weather forecast was calm and the excursion was on. We wathced the 30-minute promotional video followed by the inevitable safety briefing. A bus took us the shor trip to the jetty, where we boarded the catamaran.
Once onboard, we were told to stay seated, since the craft could do up to 40 knots, which it did, giving us an exhilataring ride out into the bay. We headed out to where a whale had been spotted, only to see its fluke disappearing just as we drew near. No worries we were told, the whales spend 10 minutes on the surface oxygenating and then dive for 45 minutes, so with luck we shoudlo see "Tutu" when he3 resurfaced.
We went in search of "Tiaki" their other regular inhabitant, the captain turned off the engines and placed a hydrophone into the water to listen for the sonar click that whales emit when diving. When they are about to surface, the click disappear anad the whales emit higher frequency pulses, which cannot be detected, so silence means one of two things - lost the whale or its coming up"!
Our search was successful and we found a whale on the surface, blowing away.
A few minutes later our guide, who understood whale body-language, said "watch out, he is about to dive". True enough in a few moments the tail fluke appeared and then slowly sank into the sea.
A very successful trip was concluded with a visit to a fur seal colony.
After that, we returned to the car and drove to seal point in Kaikoura for a "coastal promenade" which commenced with a climb of about 100 metres, but did give some great views of the surroundings!
In the evening we had the mandatory crayfish meal at the green dolphin restaurant, before returning to our accommodation. we calculated that we would need to get a few extra litres of petrol to get us all the way to Christchurch.
Wednesday, 23 January 2013
Havelock to Kaikoura
After an early breakfast (more fruit salad and scrambled egg) we packed up the car ready to leave for the drive to Kaikoura. We thanked kaern for her hospitality and set off, Alison driving down on the SH6 through the mountains towards Blenheim.
We noticed a number of vineries on the road into Blenheim so decided to stop at a "French Vinery" Georges Michel, where we had a tasting. Since Alison was driving, Pete had the tasting and she had a sipping. We mentioned that we came from Guernsey, and had just come from Havelock, to the lady serving us wondered if we had stayed at the Motel, as Karen's daughter was their accountant! Some coincidence!
We particularly liked the Syrah, so purchased one bottle, plus some "unbreakable picnic wine glasses" and went on our way. the route was very scenic and in many places ran between the railway line and the beach or vice versa, but unfortunately we seemed to have brought the misty weather with us from Havelock - the temperature was just 14 degrees outside!
The next stop was The Store, a large restau on the coast about half way to Kaikoura, where we had a coffee and cake for "lunch".
the road twisted and turned as the railway line popped in and out of tunnels until we came upon the NZ fur seal colony on the rocks at the side of the road.
We called in at the Whale Watching station on our way, so thet we knew where to go in the morning. Some of the sailings had been cancelled because of the poor weather, so fingers crossed for tomorrow!
We reached our guest house again withour any navigation issues and were shown our room, George, which had a magnificent terrace looking out over the bay (which was unfortunately still covered in mist).
A wlk down the road took us unto the township where we we disappointed to see that the "beach" was steeply shleved shingle, and definitely not for swimming! We found an Italian reasturant where we had some pasta / rissotto before walking back up a path to the Lemon tree.
failed to do the blog or send any emails as the internet speed was pedestrian, so this is being done the following morning, without any pictures as the speed is still very slow.
will retry the emails!
We noticed a number of vineries on the road into Blenheim so decided to stop at a "French Vinery" Georges Michel, where we had a tasting. Since Alison was driving, Pete had the tasting and she had a sipping. We mentioned that we came from Guernsey, and had just come from Havelock, to the lady serving us wondered if we had stayed at the Motel, as Karen's daughter was their accountant! Some coincidence!
We particularly liked the Syrah, so purchased one bottle, plus some "unbreakable picnic wine glasses" and went on our way. the route was very scenic and in many places ran between the railway line and the beach or vice versa, but unfortunately we seemed to have brought the misty weather with us from Havelock - the temperature was just 14 degrees outside!
The next stop was The Store, a large restau on the coast about half way to Kaikoura, where we had a coffee and cake for "lunch".
the road twisted and turned as the railway line popped in and out of tunnels until we came upon the NZ fur seal colony on the rocks at the side of the road.
We called in at the Whale Watching station on our way, so thet we knew where to go in the morning. Some of the sailings had been cancelled because of the poor weather, so fingers crossed for tomorrow!
We reached our guest house again withour any navigation issues and were shown our room, George, which had a magnificent terrace looking out over the bay (which was unfortunately still covered in mist).
A wlk down the road took us unto the township where we we disappointed to see that the "beach" was steeply shleved shingle, and definitely not for swimming! We found an Italian reasturant where we had some pasta / rissotto before walking back up a path to the Lemon tree.
failed to do the blog or send any emails as the internet speed was pedestrian, so this is being done the following morning, without any pictures as the speed is still very slow.
will retry the emails!
Tuesday, 22 January 2013
Walking around havelock
Woke up to our first real day of misty rain.
Home-cooked breakfast of fruit juice, scrambled egg, bacon, toast, marmalade, yogurt and of course coffee!
After breakfast we decided to try the waterfall walk just behind our motel; its well signposted at the start but then the signs disappear and its down to intelligent anticipation.
Our first sight of a "waterfall" proved to be a stream, with the real waterfall some distance awayWe reached the viewpoint and were greeted with a misty vista. On the way we encountered fallen trees, which added to the excitement of the trek.
Afterwards we made our way down past the old "dam" which had provided Havelock's water supply, we called into the cafe to dry out and enjoy tea and a date scone, before driving a few km to Cullen point, where we decided to try what was advertised as a "35minute to 1 hour walk, depending on fitness level". The rain had become more persistent, so we donned our waterproofs for the first time and set off down a gentle slope which led towards the sound and gave us some different misty views of the landscape, particularly the mudflats at low tide.
We continued along the gradually descending path for ages, remembering that what goes down must eventually go up. By the time we got back to the car 1hour and 15 minutes later we removed our raincoats, which were if anything wetter inside than out!
Back to the Motel to have a shower, change and a clothes wash!
Home-cooked breakfast of fruit juice, scrambled egg, bacon, toast, marmalade, yogurt and of course coffee!
After breakfast we decided to try the waterfall walk just behind our motel; its well signposted at the start but then the signs disappear and its down to intelligent anticipation.
Afterwards we made our way down past the old "dam" which had provided Havelock's water supply, we called into the cafe to dry out and enjoy tea and a date scone, before driving a few km to Cullen point, where we decided to try what was advertised as a "35minute to 1 hour walk, depending on fitness level". The rain had become more persistent, so we donned our waterproofs for the first time and set off down a gentle slope which led towards the sound and gave us some different misty views of the landscape, particularly the mudflats at low tide.
We continued along the gradually descending path for ages, remembering that what goes down must eventually go up. By the time we got back to the car 1hour and 15 minutes later we removed our raincoats, which were if anything wetter inside than out!
Back to the Motel to have a shower, change and a clothes wash!
Monday, 21 January 2013
Queen Charlotte Sound
Pete went shopping this morning at 07:30! so he could make breakfast of freshfruit salad, yogurt toast and marmalade finished off with coffee. Even in a Motel the standards are not slipping!
We then drove to Anakiwa, the start of the Queen Charlotte Track.
We did not manage the 70 km, but did manage to get as far as Davies Bay, about an hour's walk in temperatures approaching 24 degrees (that's 24 degrees warmer than the UK.).
back to the car park for a welcome ice cream from the Green Van kiosk, which had just opened and was so desparate for change that he gave Alison a $10 note for $9.50 of her small change.
We then drove what looked like quite a short drive on the map to the next stop on the QCT, which was Te Mahia; in fact it took us an hour of twisting and turning, the last bit on a gravel track (dont tell Hertz); (but would have taken about 4 hours on the track). This was a single hotel resort bay.
we had a very wellcome cup of tea and zuccinin cake, which was delicious - does anyone know a recipe?
Alison drove us back to havelock, where we strolled around the marina area and saw a very posh restaurant. We were not tempted and instead took back some delicious fish & chips for dinner, washed down with Red wine and cheese. We are hoping to try a BBQ tomorrow, but the choice in the local supermarket is a little limited. We will see how we get on. havelock may be the green mussel capital of the worls, but is a one street town with just a few places to stay and a limited choice in restaurants. But as always what we have seen has always been of a high standard.
We then drove to Anakiwa, the start of the Queen Charlotte Track.
back to the car park for a welcome ice cream from the Green Van kiosk, which had just opened and was so desparate for change that he gave Alison a $10 note for $9.50 of her small change.
We then drove what looked like quite a short drive on the map to the next stop on the QCT, which was Te Mahia; in fact it took us an hour of twisting and turning, the last bit on a gravel track (dont tell Hertz); (but would have taken about 4 hours on the track). This was a single hotel resort bay.
we had a very wellcome cup of tea and zuccinin cake, which was delicious - does anyone know a recipe?
Alison drove us back to havelock, where we strolled around the marina area and saw a very posh restaurant. We were not tempted and instead took back some delicious fish & chips for dinner, washed down with Red wine and cheese. We are hoping to try a BBQ tomorrow, but the choice in the local supermarket is a little limited. We will see how we get on. havelock may be the green mussel capital of the worls, but is a one street town with just a few places to stay and a limited choice in restaurants. But as always what we have seen has always been of a high standard.
North to South
We had spent yesterday after dinner fighting to fit our belongings and purchases into our luggage so that we could return the hire car at Wellington. Eventually, once Pete decided to wear his boots, all was squeezed in.
After breakfast, our car arrived at the front of the hotel and we made the short trip to the ferry terminal. We saw a strange bird and a local informed us it was a spotted shag.
We boarded the ferry and found the Panorama lounge with its swivel chairs which had to be manipulated so that we could get through to sit on them. A remarkably smooth crossing in rather misty conditions in Cook Strait, but the weather improved once we reached Queen charlotte sound, where we saw salmon and mussel farms.
On arrival at Picton the Diamond Princess cruise ship was in the deep water berth.
We collected our luggage and were given a silver car this time.
Had a walk around Picton sea front and after a cuppa we set off on the wriggly road towards Havelock, stopping frequently to admire the view.
After about 30km, we saw Havelock bay and were soon into the township and again 100% successful in finding our accommodation. We were greeted by Karen's husband, Alan, as she was bowling of course.
Went down into the town just in time to see all the shops close, so made do with a visit to the Mussel Pot, where we had steamed mussels, with sauces of blue cheese and wine (Alison) Chilli and Coriander (Pete) followed by home made gelato. So much for self catering!
Karen was pleased to see us and gave us our access code to enable us to blog away.
an early trip to the supermarket is needed tomorrow if we are to have any breakfast.
After breakfast, our car arrived at the front of the hotel and we made the short trip to the ferry terminal. We saw a strange bird and a local informed us it was a spotted shag.
On arrival at Picton the Diamond Princess cruise ship was in the deep water berth.
We collected our luggage and were given a silver car this time.
Had a walk around Picton sea front and after a cuppa we set off on the wriggly road towards Havelock, stopping frequently to admire the view.
Went down into the town just in time to see all the shops close, so made do with a visit to the Mussel Pot, where we had steamed mussels, with sauces of blue cheese and wine (Alison) Chilli and Coriander (Pete) followed by home made gelato. So much for self catering!
Karen was pleased to see us and gave us our access code to enable us to blog away.
an early trip to the supermarket is needed tomorrow if we are to have any breakfast.
Saturday, 19 January 2013
Walking in Wellington
No Wellingtons needed today!
After a substantial buffet breakfast at our hotel, we headed off to the3 railway station to see if we could see any trains (and to buy some water at the station supermarket)
We then walked up to the "Beehive" (Parliament building) but were too early for a tour, which start later on a Sunday.
Next stop was the cable car to the Botanical gardens. Bettine would really love it.
a fantastic display of roses and an even more stunning display of begonias.
Lots of pictures on the web album (together with a picture of a yellow Wellington bus for Margaret)
The gardens were on a steep slope and if we had realised that we would not have had to walk all the way back up to get the cable car down into town again!
Afterwards we walked along the sea front to the cool of the Te Papa National Museum, where we stayed for about two hours and probably saw about 10%.
back to the Hotel to empty the car, pack everything into cases ready for our ferry trip tomorrow and a new car at the other end.
South Island here we come!
After a substantial buffet breakfast at our hotel, we headed off to the3 railway station to see if we could see any trains (and to buy some water at the station supermarket)
a fantastic display of roses and an even more stunning display of begonias.
Lots of pictures on the web album (together with a picture of a yellow Wellington bus for Margaret)
The gardens were on a steep slope and if we had realised that we would not have had to walk all the way back up to get the cable car down into town again!
Afterwards we walked along the sea front to the cool of the Te Papa National Museum, where we stayed for about two hours and probably saw about 10%.
back to the Hotel to empty the car, pack everything into cases ready for our ferry trip tomorrow and a new car at the other end.
South Island here we come!
Napier to Wellington
We bade farewell to our hosts, Raymar and Phillip, who excelled themselves with customer care by cleaning our windscreen before we left! Before leaving Napier, we made the short trip to Bluff Lookout, which gave us some spectacular views of the harbour, Ahurihi village and Kidnappers Cove. The Sea Princess was moored up in the harbour near to a large quantity of wood.
We then proceeded along the SH2 in the general direction of Wellington and after stopping to take on fuel in Hastings, managed to completely lose the route as the signs to Wellington had disappeared, to be replaced by ones to Waipukurua (a small town on the way). We found the route again and promptly lost it when we found ourselves at Havelock North! Clearly the extra fuel would be needed.
Once we rejoined the SH2, progress was uneventful and we just before Dannevirke to change drivers. Alison then drove up to our planned stop at Pukaha, where our hosts had recommended that we should visit the National Wildlife breeding centre and bird sanctuary. This proved a great relaxing break, the cafe food was excellent and the park visit very interesting and both were reasonably priced. It was possible to do walking routes of from 15 minutes to 2 hours - we chose the 45minute option and saw some endangered birds plus a white kiwi in a very dark enclosure. (picture not good enough to publish)
Peter resumed the driving and after bypassing Masterton on the basis of recommendations, we once again entered mountian roads on the route from Featherstone to Upper Hutt; some great views, but nowhere sensible to stop!
According to the local paper a young lady was arrested by the police for dancing in her car at Lower Hutt - she was subsequently released without charge!
We arrived safely at Rydges once again with about 60km of fuel left and no further navigational issues but in very cold and windy conditions, so much so that we could not empty the car! this bodes well for our crossing to south Island on Monday! A very welcome swim in the hotel pool was followed by a tasty bar snack as we did not feel like combating the gales.
We then proceeded along the SH2 in the general direction of Wellington and after stopping to take on fuel in Hastings, managed to completely lose the route as the signs to Wellington had disappeared, to be replaced by ones to Waipukurua (a small town on the way). We found the route again and promptly lost it when we found ourselves at Havelock North! Clearly the extra fuel would be needed.
Once we rejoined the SH2, progress was uneventful and we just before Dannevirke to change drivers. Alison then drove up to our planned stop at Pukaha, where our hosts had recommended that we should visit the National Wildlife breeding centre and bird sanctuary. This proved a great relaxing break, the cafe food was excellent and the park visit very interesting and both were reasonably priced. It was possible to do walking routes of from 15 minutes to 2 hours - we chose the 45minute option and saw some endangered birds plus a white kiwi in a very dark enclosure. (picture not good enough to publish)
Peter resumed the driving and after bypassing Masterton on the basis of recommendations, we once again entered mountian roads on the route from Featherstone to Upper Hutt; some great views, but nowhere sensible to stop!
According to the local paper a young lady was arrested by the police for dancing in her car at Lower Hutt - she was subsequently released without charge!
We arrived safely at Rydges once again with about 60km of fuel left and no further navigational issues but in very cold and windy conditions, so much so that we could not empty the car! this bodes well for our crossing to south Island on Monday! A very welcome swim in the hotel pool was followed by a tasty bar snack as we did not feel like combating the gales.
Thursday, 17 January 2013
Exploring Art Deco Napier
the day started with an excellent breakfast prepared by Raymar and Phillip, complete with home-made bread and preserves. They also gave us some good ideas for spending our time out.
We drove down to "the Parade" and left the car rather further away from the city centre than we needed to. We arrived at the I-site just in time to join the Art Deco guided tour, which lasted for an hour and afforded us views and descriptions of the most significant architectural highlights.
we then saw a 20-minute film summarising the aftermath of the earthquake and the rebuilding of the city.
We browsed the rather expensive Art Deco shop, had a coffee and then explored the Cathedral of St John, which was also rebuilt in Art Deco style.
The organ was being rebuilt so there was scaffolding all around the altar.
We then drove on the tour suggested by Raymar and reached the car park which was the start of a 5-hour trek to the Gannet colony at Kidnapper's point. the tide was not ideal for this walk, so we stopped in the cafe instead.
Alison took over the driving, so it was back in the mountains again, with fantastic scenery aand view of the crags, but as always nowhere to stop for photos! We stopped in Havelock North and concluded with a visit to Abbey vineyard where there was some degustation followed by the inevitable purchases. after a welcome drink of water, Peter drove on to the guest house, only taking one extra circuit of the hill in the process.
We drove down to "the Parade" and left the car rather further away from the city centre than we needed to. We arrived at the I-site just in time to join the Art Deco guided tour, which lasted for an hour and afforded us views and descriptions of the most significant architectural highlights.
We browsed the rather expensive Art Deco shop, had a coffee and then explored the Cathedral of St John, which was also rebuilt in Art Deco style.
The organ was being rebuilt so there was scaffolding all around the altar.
We then drove on the tour suggested by Raymar and reached the car park which was the start of a 5-hour trek to the Gannet colony at Kidnapper's point. the tide was not ideal for this walk, so we stopped in the cafe instead.
Alison took over the driving, so it was back in the mountains again, with fantastic scenery aand view of the crags, but as always nowhere to stop for photos! We stopped in Havelock North and concluded with a visit to Abbey vineyard where there was some degustation followed by the inevitable purchases. after a welcome drink of water, Peter drove on to the guest house, only taking one extra circuit of the hill in the process.
Wednesday, 16 January 2013
Rotorua to Napier
We were on our own for breakfast so Gavin cooked us an enormous tasty omelette for breakfast!
we managed to find our way out from the Lodge frist time and headed off south at around 09:45 on SH5.
After a sunny start, it began to rain as we drove past the Wai-o-Tapu thermal site we had visited yesterday, so we were pleased we had seen the geyser in the dry! the roads were reasonable straight and wide with rolling countryside.
We stopped at Huka falls, as recommended in our itinerary, just north of Taupo, to view the falls.
They were more like rapids that falls, but still impressive.
We stopped off at Taupo at around midday for a coffee, but the effects of our breakfats were still with us, so no cakes!
Alison then took over the driving for the more exciting mountain drive (plus roadworks) to Napier. we missed the Waipunga falls, as they were just signposted as "Lookout" and by the time we saw it we hadn't looked out.
Arriving early, we parked up at Ahuriri village (the Maori name for Napier) and managed our first picture of a bus with bike rack (Margaret please note).
more Art Deco pictures of Napier will follow tomorrow!
We found our accommodation, again first time, following the excellent instructions and maps and are now looking forward to our evening meal at Mission Estate (Phillip our host has kindly agreed to take us there and we will taxi back, so that we can enjoy our wine).
The meal could only be described as memorably excellent, on arrival we were greeted by name and invited to sample the cocktail bar - we chose one clean and one dirty dry martini cocktail. Alison had carrot and coconut soup, followed by rare lamb, whilst Peter had a cured salmon starter followed by cheek and loin of pork on a bed of Pak choi and asian vegetables. For dessert we had a tiramisu and a chocolate fondant. On our return we were unable to face the complimentary glass of port and chocolates that had been left in our room by our hosts!
we managed to find our way out from the Lodge frist time and headed off south at around 09:45 on SH5.
After a sunny start, it began to rain as we drove past the Wai-o-Tapu thermal site we had visited yesterday, so we were pleased we had seen the geyser in the dry! the roads were reasonable straight and wide with rolling countryside.
We stopped at Huka falls, as recommended in our itinerary, just north of Taupo, to view the falls.
We stopped off at Taupo at around midday for a coffee, but the effects of our breakfats were still with us, so no cakes!
Alison then took over the driving for the more exciting mountain drive (plus roadworks) to Napier. we missed the Waipunga falls, as they were just signposted as "Lookout" and by the time we saw it we hadn't looked out.
Arriving early, we parked up at Ahuriri village (the Maori name for Napier) and managed our first picture of a bus with bike rack (Margaret please note).
We found our accommodation, again first time, following the excellent instructions and maps and are now looking forward to our evening meal at Mission Estate (Phillip our host has kindly agreed to take us there and we will taxi back, so that we can enjoy our wine).
The meal could only be described as memorably excellent, on arrival we were greeted by name and invited to sample the cocktail bar - we chose one clean and one dirty dry martini cocktail. Alison had carrot and coconut soup, followed by rare lamb, whilst Peter had a cured salmon starter followed by cheek and loin of pork on a bed of Pak choi and asian vegetables. For dessert we had a tiramisu and a chocolate fondant. On our return we were unable to face the complimentary glass of port and chocolates that had been left in our room by our hosts!
Wai-o-tapu and Rotorua
We had booked an early float plane flight,but the cloud cover was too low, so we drove down to the volcanic area of wai-o-tapu.
We arrived just in time to see the "Lady Knox" geyser burst into its daily activity, which is prompted by the addition of surfacants to happen at 10:15.
After cleaning the spray off the cameras, we drove back to the visitor centre to see the volcanic craters and pools.
We followed the official walk around the craters and pools
and then drove back to Rotorua via the mud pools
on the way back we heard a beeping sound as we were (predictably) low on petrol. We found a filling station and then tried for what seemed ages to open the filler cap until a Toyota expert showed us where the filler cap release lever was hidden!
Our delayed flight in the only de Havilland seaplane in New Zealand had been re-booked for 14:00 so we dashed back and arrived just in time to be weighed in as the youngest passengers amongst an accompanying Saga group embarrasingly from the UK!
We navigated did a 30-minute flight (with Pete in the jump seat keeping clear of the joystick) up and around the crater of Taraweira, which last erupted in 1826.
Finally we returned to the Lodge for a relaxing spa session outside by the lake.
Dinner was taken at the top iof mount Ngongotaha, reached by gondola, affording spectacular view of the lake and surroundings.
And so to blog!
.
We arrived just in time to see the "Lady Knox" geyser burst into its daily activity, which is prompted by the addition of surfacants to happen at 10:15.
We followed the official walk around the craters and pools
on the way back we heard a beeping sound as we were (predictably) low on petrol. We found a filling station and then tried for what seemed ages to open the filler cap until a Toyota expert showed us where the filler cap release lever was hidden!
Our delayed flight in the only de Havilland seaplane in New Zealand had been re-booked for 14:00 so we dashed back and arrived just in time to be weighed in as the youngest passengers amongst an accompanying Saga group embarrasingly from the UK!
Dinner was taken at the top iof mount Ngongotaha, reached by gondola, affording spectacular view of the lake and surroundings.
And so to blog!
.
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